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Iso hash / Qwiso

$260.00 $250.00

Iso hash is the product of a isopropyl alcohol extraction. QWISO is an acronym for Quick Wash Isopropyl Alcohol hash, a popular technique for creating iso hash. Using alcohol as a solvent is incredibly cheap, Iso hash / Qwiso,  however the flavour isn’t as comparable to other solvents/methods. The product depends on the quality of the cannabis and extraction. High quality QWISO often looks clear and yellow, like a shatter, with a malleable texture. Low quality iso hash is often green (from plant chlorophyll) or black, and gummy in texture

Buy Iso hash / Qwiso | Iso hash / Qwiso for sale | Iso hash / Qwiso

Iso hash is the product of a isopropyl alcohol extraction. QWISO is an acronym for Quick Wash Isopropyl Alcohol hash, a popular technique for creating iso hash.

ol as a solvent is incredibly cheap, however the flavour isn’t as comparable to other solvents/methods.

The product depends on the quality of the cannabis and extraction. High quality QWISO often looks clear and yellow, like a shatter, with a malleable texture. Low quality iso hash is often green (from plant chlorophyll) or black, and gummy in textur

Using alcohe

Buy Iso hash / Qwiso | Iso hash / Qwiso for sale | Iso hash / Qwiso

First of all, what is a QWISO (Quick-Wash ISOpropyl) extract? Cannabis buds consist of two main parts – plant material and, what I like to call, “effective material”, which gives all the desired effects from consuming it. In other words, plant material is more or less useless. An extract (also called concentrate, shatter, wax, oil, budder) basically contains only the desired “effective material”, and is intended for many uses, but mainly for vaporizing.

Making extracts isn’t as difficult as you may think, just requires some patience. There are several different methods for making high-quality extracts (other popular being BHO, but it is way more dangerous and complex due to usage of highly flammable butane, so I will stick to QWISO method).

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Items you will need:

  • Buds, at very least 5 grams of it, though the more the better (10-20 grams is optimal).
  • A grinder.
  • Coffee filters (unbleached).
  • Isopropyl alcohol, the purer, the better, 99% recommended. Isopropyl alcohol is also called rubbing alcohol. You can get it from hardware or electronics stores. You will need around 100 – 200 ml of it per 10 grams of buds.
  • A sieve (for filtering chunky plant material). Or 2 sieves – one smaller and one as large as possible, if you’re making over 10 grams.
  • A plate or other flat ceramic or glass surface (note: it must be quite deep, since you will be pouring quite a lot of liquid there).
  • 1 small jar (up to 0.5 litre) and 1 larger jar (0.5-1 litre should be enough).
  • A small razor blade for gathering the extract.
  • (optional, but highly recommended) a simple air-blowing fan.

 

  • Preparations to be made at least 3 hours before the extraction:

    First of all, make sure all containers (both jars and a plate) are really clean and totally dry (you want them totally clean, since the unwanted material might get into the extract, causing you problems later trying to remove it, and you want them dry, since water evaporation takes way longer than alcohol).

    Firstly grind up all your buds into the small jar (ground buds have larger surface area, so it is easier to extract all the goods from them that way). Then put that jar and your alcohol into a freezer for a few hours or just overnight to make sure they’re as cold as possible (don’t worry, isopropyl freezes only at -89 C). Freezing is necessary, since trichromes fall off the leaves of the bud way more easily at low temperatures, making the extraction significantly more successful. Extracting without freezing results in smaller amounts of the final product.

Description

Iso hash / Qwiso Follow our detailed step-by-step procedure to produce your own ISO Hash.

However, you could save you a lot of trouble by simply clicking “buy” on the product.

The first question is why use a quick wash technique to extract the resins, instead of long soaks to extract as much resin as possible, or just reflux boiling the material in alcohol to get the greatest amount of extracte material?

The answer to that is that because alcohol is a highly polar solvent that is soluble in water, the latter two techniques also extract the water solubles like chlorophyll and plant alkaloids, as well as the plant waxes and vegetable oil.

Even quick wash does to a lesser degree, but the add steps that we include here minimize pickup even further and we take additional steps to remove the impurities that we do pick up, so that they are not left behind on the skin.

The first wash will usually extract 75 to 80%, leaving the balance for the second. If you use a hand microscope, you can easily see when the trichome heads are gone and the stalks look like wet fur.

A cure material QWISO absolute made from prime bud, is one of the most aromatic and tasty of the extraction and consistently gets high raves from the volunteer test panels, as well as the patients and students when vaporize. Both from an efficacy, as well as a flavor standpoint.

This process is for mixe leaf material however, which includes fan leaves, so it usually isn’t all that tasty.

The first step in the process is to get as much water as possible out of the material. Typically material for smoking has been cure to about 15% water content. 15% is a lot of water and the alcohol already is 1% in it, so unless we reduce the water content even further, we will be extracting a lot of water solubles.

We dry our cure material even further by spreading it on a cookie sheet and baking it in a 200F oven until just frangible when roll between the finger and thumb.

At this point, we have a choice of running the leaf whole, or reducing it in size to improve packing. Leaving it whole will produce a more pristine extraction, with the least amount of chlorophyll pickup, and we do it both ways.

When we make QWISO for vaporizing, or for a show and tell beauty contest, we always leave the leaves whole.

When reducing it in size, while it is still warm from the oven. We force the material through a pasta strainer.

In both cases, we seal the material in a jar while still warm and place in the freezer to tie up any remaining water as ice. We also put the 99% Isopropyl alcohol in the freezer.

When they have both stabilized at about -32C/0F, we pour the alcohol into the jar of plant material, so that it is at least an inch above the material, and shake it gently for 20 seconds.

At the end of 20 seconds, we dump it through a wire strainer to drain quickly. I use a pasta strainer to catch the bulk of the material, followed by a fine mesh French Chinoise. This allows the material and the alcohol to separate fast.

We set the material aside to dry and refreeze for a second extraction.

Next we filter the alcohol, using either vacuum and a #1 lab filter, filter or a simple coffee filter, depending on the quantity we are processing.

After filtration, there are a couple of directions to go, depend on use. If it is to be use for vaporizing, we may place it a large surface area dish, like a Pyrex pie plate, and just blow air over it. That reduces it fast, but is not a suitable technique in dusty areas. That can be improve somewhat by placing cheese cloth over the dish and blowing over the top of that.

When the alcohol is visually gone, place the dish on a 140F heat mat. Or, I float it in a hot water dish, until the smell and taste of the Isopropyl is gone, usually around 30 minutes to an hour.

For our use in topical, we place the filtered liquid in a bain marie stainless vessel. Next, I place that into an oil bath heated to 121C/250F.

I throw four jar lids in the bottom of my electric fondue pot. To suspend the container up off the bottom. Helps to eliminate hot spots and never trust the numbers on the fondue pot dial. Instead, I use a good a mercury lab, or a digital thermometer to set the dials. Good temperature control is key to the process.